Recipes
Marbled Hazelnut-Brownie Cheesecake for a Crowd
(Serves a crowd)
I am indebted to the hugely talented dessert-meister of the Palm restaurant, Jeffrey Bleaken, for the original recipe on which this variation is based. You will probably have to invest in a new pan the first time you make it, since so few people actually have a 10-inch springform pan lurking about the kitchen, but once you have the pan you can place the cheesecake firmly in your repertoire of formidable desserts (it travels well, in the pan, too). Note: don’t be tempted to make it in a 9-inch springform; it’ll be too thick to cook efficiently.
Melting Potatoes with Thyme and Cheese
(Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 to 3 as a main course, with a salad; may be doubled by using two pans)
As an homage to one of my heroes, Nigel Slater, I set out to create the sine-qua-non of potato comfort-in-a-pan. But, in order to qualify for inclusion in my relaxed kitchen, it had to be 80 percent hands-off, and then, once finished, capable of hanging out uncompromised until I was good and ready to serve. This heavenly dish is the result.
Lobster and White Bean Spoons
(Serves 12 @ two spoons each; recipe may be halved)
These are rather decadent and filling little bites that nevertheless can lay claim to a certain rusticity. Beans will do that. If lobster is unavailable or too expensive, feel free to substitute cooked crayfish or crab.
Buffalo Mozzarella, Tomato, and Pesto Tarts
(Serves 6 as an appetizer or lunch; may be doubled)
Sure, you can substitute great fresh cow’s milk mozzarella for the buffalo mozzarella called for here. But if you can get the authentic stuff, treat yourself. Puff pastry is the lazy cook’s secret ingredient; if your local bakery is willing to sell you a hunk of raw puff pastry made with real butter, the flavors of this crisp and colorful summer snack will take off for the moon and never look back.
Mise-en-Place: Thaw the puff pastry for at least 2 and up to 4 hours at room temperature. For this recipe, you will not be rolling the pastry out any further, so all you have to do is remove it from the package and unfold. If you buy pastry from a bakery—or, quel horreur, make it yourself—roll the dough out to just less than ¼-inch thick.
8 ounces large, ripe plum tomatoes
About 1 pound frozen puff pastry, thawed (2 sheets of pastry)
6 ounces impeccably fresh buffalo mozzarella, sliced about ¼-inch thick
½ cup best-quality store-bought pesto (in the chilled section of the market--not in a glass jar)
1 egg, lightly beaten
Sprigs of fresh basil, for garnish (optional)
Best-quality lemon olive oil, for drizzling
In a small saucepan of boiling salted water, immerse the tomatoes for 15 seconds. Pull off the skin and cut 12 thick slices; or, cut 6 slices and halve them crosswise.
Cut three 5-inch rounds from each of the two pastry sheets, using a small plate or lid as a guide (you will need to cheat the edges slightly in a few places to get 3 rounds from each sheet; or if it’s really a tight fit, use a rolling pin to roll out each sheet so it’s an inch or so larger). Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Place two slices of tomato and two slices of mozzarella in the center of each dough disk, overlapping slightly.
Refrigerate for 15 minutes while you assemble an interesting Italian cocktail (perhaps a Negroni?), and preheat the oven to 400F, convection if possible.
Brush the exposed edges with beaten egg and place a few dollops of pesto on each. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the pastry edges are golden brown. Serve at once.
For Adventure Club Members: Make your own pesto from basil or arugola.
© Brigit Binns