Fire-Roasted Niman Ranch Pork Belly, For the Ladies Serves 6 to 8 Order a pork belly, with the skin on, from Niman Ranch. Have it delivered 1 day before you plan to serve the ladies. Cut off about 1/3 of the belly (it will be too long to fit on most spits), wrap well, and freeze for a future two-or threesome dinner. (My telephone consultant for the development of this recipe was the wonderful chef Eric Klein, who turned the fortunes of L.A.'s famed Maple Drive and is now helming Steve Wynn's eponymous steakhouse in Las Vegas. I gave him a piece of skin when he came by later to pick up his wife Tori, who was one of the "ladies.")

The night before you will serve: In a food processor, make a thick paste from:
15 large, fresh cloves of garlic
Spines from several branches of fresh rosemary, about 1/2 cup
Zest only, from 4 lemons; juice from 1
Quite a bit of coarsely ground black pepper that you grind yourself, right into the processor
4 anchovies
Enough olive oil to make it thick, not runny.


With a sharp, heavy knife, score the skin in long slashes all the way from side to side and top to bottom, spacing the cuts about 1/2 inch apart to make 1/2-inch squares. Make the cuts about 1/4-inch deep.
Poke 3/4-inch holes in the edges and underside of the belly, about every 2 inches, with a small, sharp knife. Rub the paste in between the sqaures of skin and push some into all the holes. Refrigerate on a rack over a heavy roasting pan, uncovered, overnight.

 In the morning, remove the belly from the fridge and let it stand on the rack at room temperature, covered with a light towel, for 8 hours, to
"cure."

Build a very, very hot, fire on one side of a covered grill, preferably with mesquite charcoal or real hardwood. Set up the rotisserie attachment to hold the pork (it will not need to turn) and place the roasting pan directly underneath where the pork will rest after it's mounted on the spit, on the opposite side of the grill from the fire (there will be a substantial quantity of drippings, and a disposable foil pan is too flimsy).
Mount the pork on the spit, straight through the center. Mount the spit on the grill so the pork is skin side down directly over the roasting pan, but do not turn on the motor. Close the grill and let sear for 1 hour. (Ideally the temperature inside the grill should be up above 600F; this period is crucial, in order to ensure good cracklings.) Let the fire burn down to a gentle 350F or so and keep feeding it with charcoal or wood and rosemary branches as necessary to maintain this approximate temperature for 4 hours more. Slide the pork onto a platter and let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes.

Carve in long slices, each one with its share of skin,  and sprinkle with a little fresh lemon juice and grains of orange salt from Hawaii. Serve with a huge romaine (or other sturdy green) salad dressed with a tart, lemony and peppery vinaigrette, to cut the (delicious) fat.



Warning: If you want leftovers, don't let the boys get at this roast, no matter what they promise.